Dog Training Course

Dog training courses can mean the difference between having a happy dog and happy life - or not. Dogs are happier, healthier and safer when they have loving boundaries set for them and that's what dog training courses help you learn to set for your dog.

First let's take a look at the overall methods that dog training courses use. If you find a method that suits you best, you will know the type of course that will best for you and your dog.

Types of Dog Training Courses

Reward Training: Emphasizes positive reinforcement -- instead of punishing or yelling at your dog for what you don't want him to do, you reward your dog for doing what you want him to do. Rewards consist of praise and petting as well as treats. Treats are especially used in the early learning stages of a new behavior.

Dog Whispering: Dog Whispering is more of a general philosophy than a method. This is a more advanced method that should taken on by dog lovers who feel very confident in their connection with their dogs and are interested in learning about canine behaviors, motivation and body language.

Choke or Check Collar Training: Choke collars are collars that slip over a dogs head onto it neck and tighten down on the dogs neck when it pulls too hard on its leash. Choke collars were designed for professional trainers and for limited use - there is a health risk to your dog's neck and trachea when using them. In general, dog training courses that emphasize choke or check collar training are not recommended.

Prong Collar Training: Don't even think about this method. A prong collar has metal ends that stick into a dog's flesh and digs into its neck when it pulls on its leash. Inhumane period!

Head Collar Training: Very humane collar that gently redirects a dog's attention or the way you want him to go instead of punishing or hurting him as the two methods directly above do. Very effective especially when used with Reward Training.

Clicker Training: This method takes a hand-held clicker which, oddly enough, makes a "clicking" noise when squeezed. During clicker training, a dog is reinforced in behaviors with doggie treats paired with the clicking noise. At some point, the treats will be eliminated and the dog will know it has done something right simply by hearing the clicking noise. Very effective.

Electric Collar Training: As the name implies, this type of training involves your dog wearing a collar in which you are able to administer an electric shock to discourage certain behaviors. this method should only be used by professional trainers in the most extreme circumstances.

Ultrasonic Whistle Training: You know of the dog whistles that you can't hear but a dog can - right? This method uses these whistles to get your dog's attention as well as to train him. You will need to be trained in this method first.

Barry Sowder is a dog lover and trains two very different dogs of his - Spencer an older, rescued terrier-mix and Olivia, a young pure-bred Collie. Find the best dog training course for you and your dog at his Dog Training Courses blog, available at: http://www.dogtrainingcourses-1.com/

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Dog Training Course article

Dog Agility Training

Using a leave command will give you much greater control over what your dog eats and sniffs when you are out walking the streets. You can also use it at home or any situation. The leave command is essentially a word that tells your dog not to sniff or eat something and it is the first step in training food refusal. There is not usually a hand signal involved in this type of training because it is more than likely used when you are walking and as your dog may be on the leash, you will not have your hands free.

Why should I use a leave command?

A leave command is a very useful tool to have in your dog training toolkit because it is easy to train and can be used in a variety of situations. It is also very important because it can stop your dog from eating something that may make it sick or may cause choking.

How do I start training a leave command?

Choose the word you want to use - some trainers use the word 'leave'. You can do either or both of the following. For the quickest and best results, do both and ask someone to help you when training food refusal. When you are out in the street and your dog goes to sniff or eat something off the ground, say 'leave' and keep walking. Don't give your dog the opportunity to get to it anyway by walking quickly away. Because this is a form of capturing, it will take some time because you are reliant on there being something on the ground. The second method is better because you have full control and can practise it anytime.

Choose a food that your dog likes and leave a very small pile on the ground. Put your dog on the leash and walk by the food. Walk close enough for him to sniff it but not too close so he can reach it. Give the leave command just as your dog goes for the food. In all good training timing is everything. Your dog needs to understand what you want straight away. You need to interrupt his behaviour as soon as it starts.

When you are walking past, give your dog praise. If you want to use treats to reward him, wait until you are five paces away. Your dog needs to learn that he is being rewarded for leaving the food on the ground and walking away so putting a small distance between the treat and the food on the ground will reinforce this.

FOOD REFUSAL

Food refusal can save your dog from eating poisoned food or over eating. Training food refusal may take a long time depending upon your dog's appetite and with some breeds like Labradors it needs constant practise and reminders.

Before you begin food refusal, choose an 'eat' command. Some people use 'eat' and others 'OK'. Whatever word you choose has to be different from any other word you use for your training.

Put your dog on his leash and get him into a sit. Ask someone to walk up to him and offer him some treats. It is important that you keep your dog in a sit and only let him have the treats when you say so. If he learns forward and stands up, re-command him into a sit and ask the person with the food to step away. When he can sit and wait for your command to eat, that's when he has learnt what you want. Now you have to practise and start making his training more intense.

Remember: always give your dog or puppy the opportunity to correct his behaviour and do the right thing. It is up to you to teach him what is acceptable and what is not. Reward acceptable behaviour; discourage unacceptable behaviour by using loud unpleasant noises, withdrawal of attention or treats or leaving your puppy on its own. Never hit or strike your puppy; you will only be teaching him that violence is an acceptable behaviour in your pack and he may use it on other pack members or friends including children.

Sue Day is a dog behaviourist with experience in puppy training, dog agility, obedience, and re homing shelter dogs. Sue owns Messy Pawz Dog Training which advocates positive training methods. Sue has made a lot of information available for free on her website: http://www.messypawz.com

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Dog Training Center

Weave Poles are the hardest event for a dog to master, so most trainers have their own set at home. The method you use to train your dog is entirely up to you, but I recommend you try a couple of different ones to see which is the best for you and your dog.

Through the years a number of weave pole training methods have been introduced, Channel Weaves, Weave-A-Matic or WAM and Weave Pole Guide Wires, all of which produce various results in individual dogs. The end result depends solely on the amount of time and energy the trainer is willing to invest.

Channel Weave Method

The "channel method" is gaining popularity. This is a great method for those dogs that just can't grasp the concept of the agility weave poles. Two parallel rows of weave poles are put side by side, but offset in such a way that the dog has a wide square center "channel" to run down. The poles rotate on the base, so you start with a channel and then slowly swivel the poles towards the center as your dog improves. At first your dog is not weaving he is just running through to the other end like an open tunnel. By slowly, inch-by-inch, bringing the poles closer together, your dog will begin to weave without even knowing it! If you are patient and don't rush the channel process, your dog will come to "understand" weaving and be less apt to miss poles in the future!

Weave-A-Matic or WAM Method

This method is very similar to the Channel method. The main difference is, instead of a wide square channel at the base of the weaves, there is a narrower "V" channel your dog will have to run through. As with the Channel method, the poles are slowly brought back to vertical as your dog learns what he is suppose to do. The WAM method is fine for most dogs, but some might feel a bit claustrophobic in the narrower space and not perform as well.

Weave Pole Guide Wires

Weave Pole Guide Wires will help if your dog is having some trouble learning the Agility Weaves or is just starting to learn.

Guide Wires are an essential part of the training, making it easier, faster, more fun and a lot less frustrating for both you and your dog. The Weave Pole Guide Wires simply show your dog the correct way through the weaves by creating a "tunnel" effect through the event. With the wires at eye level for your dog, he will naturally try to avoid them, taking the path of least resistance thus learning to weave without realizing he is learning to weave. Once the Weave Guides are removed he will continue to weave naturally, but, if needed, the Guide wires can be easily brought back for a quick refresher.

Stick-in-the-ground Weave Poles

If you only own a set of Stick-in-the-Ground Weave Poles, you can try all of the above training methods. This set comes with a "spacer stick" to get the correct spacing of the poles, so, you could, with a bit of work make a square channel. With a lot less work you could use the WAM method just by tilting the poles and, of course, the Weave Pole Guide Wires will fit on these or any set of weave poles you own.

The advantage to using Stick-in-the-Ground Weave Poles is, there is no base, so the dog has one less distraction. The disadvantages are, it takes a bit longer to set the event up and it's not as easy to move it.

Any of these methods, in the right hands will produce results. It really comes down to what works for you and your dog, if you find one method isn't working, try a different approach. Sometimes all it takes is a change in routine. Dogs are really no different than people, they all learn at different speeds and sometimes, even by different methods. In the end, it's your patience, persistence and praise that will determine whether your dogs succeeds or fails.

IT IS ALL UP TO YOU!

Agility, more than just good for your dog!

 

Paul Ineson 

About Paul Ineson:

Paul Ineson is an Internet marketer who also owns and operates http://www.superdogagility.com - a small company that is dedicated to bringing you, high quality but affordable dog agility training equipment.

Our suppliers share our passion for quality and service. For free articles on Dog Training - please feel free to visit http://www.superdogagility.com/dogagilityarticles.

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